Ultimate Guide to Change the Air Bag Suspension!

An air bag suspension broken will cause rear suspension sag. If meeting this problem, you gotta change an air bag suspension. But just how to do that? This is the ultimate guide for you. Hope this helps.

This was a pretty easy DIY as others had posted. But please be careful and no to injure yourself or damage your vehicle.

1, loosen the lug bolts on your wheel.

2, raise the rear and place on jack stands.

3, remove wheel.

4, this morning was one of the mornings where my bag wasn’t sagging so I had to remove the underside panel on the right side of the vehicle to locate the compressor and loosen the line going to my driver’s side bag. On our X5’s there are 2 lines; a blue and a red. The driver’s side line is the red line. However, in case yours aren’t color coded, if you are looking at the compressor from the passenger side of the vehicle looking toward the center of the vehicle the left line goes to the driver’s side and the right line goes to the passenger side air bag.

Just loosen it slightly until you hear the sounds whistling out of the line. This will deflate the suspension air bag completely. Once finished, remove the suspension air bag by unclipping the bottom of the air bag from the suspension hole. This is easily done with a flat head screw driver by pushing in on the tabs on either side and pushing up at the same time. It will “pop” right out.

5, turn the top of the bag clock-wise (IIRC) 90 degrees and the whole bag will come out.

6, loosen the 10mm nut on the air line going into the air bag and remove and discard the nut and collar. IF YOU ARE USING OEM BAG, DO NOT remove the collar and nut. You will re-use it.

Once the line is removed, discard the old bag and insert the line into the new Arnott air bag. Note, remove the white cap on the Arnott bag first. This line will not need to be tightened in place and instead will stay in place. Just make sure to push the line all the way in and secure the line along the side of the air bag (this will be obvious when you install, sorry no pics).

7, install the new bag into the upper part of the vehicle where it secures by a counter-clockwise rotation. This part was the hardest for me as I couldn’t get the tabs to line up into the whole. Once in place, you’ll notice that the air bag doesn’t extend all the way to the bottom suspension. That’s because the air bag comes deflated.

CAUTION: Note how much distance there is from the bottom of the air bag to the bottom of the suspension whole.

8, raise the driver side suspension slowly to guide the bottom of the air bag into the whole in the bottom suspension. It will easily pop into place.

Button everything back up, install wheel, start the car and wait about 2 minutes before you begin lowering the vehicle. Slowly lower the vehicle in increments so the bag can fill with air. NEVER EVER LOWER THE X5 ON A COMPLETELY DEFLATED AIR BAG.

I only did one side today but I will tackle the other side soon. Since I’ve done it once and know what I’m doing it shouldn’t take me more than an hour to do the other side.

Hope this helps for anybody experiencing the dreaded suspension sag.

How to Change BMW X5 E70 Differential Fluid?

Parts and tools:

  • Mighty Vac oil extractor (or any plunger/syringe ect to draw out the fluid)
  • 14mm hex socket
  • Various clear flexible vinyl hose (to extract)
  • 2L of 75w-90 GL-5 spec (i used Liqui Moly 75W-90)
  • Oil drain pan
  • Floor jack
  • Torque Wrench
  • New rubber O-ring for the plug


1. Make sure your car is level ground, place an oil drain pan below the diff, then get your 14mm hex bit and remove the fill plug, replace the rubber-O-ring on it.

2. Insert your oil extract hose into the fill port hole of the differential there is no drain plug on the E70’s so your going to have to use some sort of oil extractor or syringe.Pro-Tip: to extract the most oil out of your diff, use the floor jack and lift the front of the car this will allow all the fluid to pool at the back of the diff, and use an 90* Angle bend or a U shaped hose for easier extraction.

3. Start pumping the mighty vac or extract the fluid you should get ~1L out.

4. Fill the Differential till its begin to streams or leaks out of the hole it took about 1L + ~100ml. This particular brand (Liqui Moly) has a build in spout for easy fill i just stick it in there and fill it up.

You can bend the pipe and it will still fill up just fine with no leaks!

Tilt it up so you can get the most out of the bottle.

5. Then replace the cap and torque it down to 44 lb/ft torque or 60nm, as per BMW tightening bolt spec sheet. The AutoZone’s hex socket was a tooth too long for the click torque wrench to fit but it eventually with some fussing with it.

No changes in driveability, the fluid that came out was Golden honey brown, not bad assuming that was in there for 5 years and 68k miles. No metal shavings (had a NEO Denyum magnet around the mighty vac oil extraction line) observed.

How to Replace the Fuel Filter on BMW X5 (Step by step)

The Accessories we will use:

E53 Fuel Filter, Mann WK513/3 or BMW PN 16126754016, which includes the Pressure Regulator.

Dorman 800-027, which is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023.

Short section of vacuum hose.

8-mm, 10-mm, and 13-mm sockets and long extension!


Okay, let’s begin.

1. Car on wood ramps. You can pull the Fuse #47 as in the link above. I did not pull the Fuse and very little fuel came out.

2. The Big Cover on the driver side is a pain because nobody ever posted detailed photo of the exact location of the bolts, so I had to fool around a bit. No worry, if you follow this guide, it is not bad at all. IIRC, there are some 10-mm bolts near the heat shield and Eleven (11) 13-mm bolts (some require long extension and socket to get to: 4 bolts are alongside the driveshaft, 2 are near the muffler, 2 are inside the holes, and 1 is hidden just in front to the rear tire!!!


3. Do not remove the Big Cover, all you need is to lower it.

Off topic but in the Spring, if you need to wash the brake metal lines to prevent corrosion, use some water (gentle stream, no pressure washer) and aim it up holes #3 and #4, water will dissolve the salt used in winter to prevent corrosion!


4. The setup looks like this:

The old vacuum hose: use a utility knife and cut it GENTLY along its length to remove it. Replace with new vacuum hose, oil the nipple a bit to allow the hose to slide better.

– I could not remove one of the 10-mm bolts (the nut just spins), so I simply slide the old Fuel Filter out and new one in.

– Note in the DIY above, there are 2 ways to undo the connections: squeeze the sides or remove the clips, whatever you do, the chance of breaking the clips is high. I broke 2 out of 3 clips.


5. Dorman 800-027 is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023 (Ford/GM type): shorten the WHITE clips a bit and trim alongside (taking off about 1mm or so using a utility knife).

– Just look at the factory BLUE clip AS A GUIDE. There is only one way to insert it, the concave side of the clip faces the Fuel Filter.


6. Before you install the connectors, be absolutely sure which is which because once it is installed, it is difficult to undo it and you risk breaking your new plastic clips. So BLUE is fuel feed and goes to the center of the Fuel Filter. And BLACK is the return line. Do NOT mix up these lines!

– Oil the nipples a bit before installing the connectors. You must hear a “CLICK”.

– Gently tug the connector a bit to be sure it is fully seated. I added zip ties to be sure.


7. Now test the new Fuel Filter by:

– Key in position II a few times to prime the Fuel Filter.

– Start engine and watch for any leaks.


8. Turn off engine and re-install the Big Cover.


All the process done here.