BMW Car Retrofitting, Rating and Reviews

The Accessories we will use:

E53 Fuel Filter, Mann WK513/3 or BMW PN 16126754016, which includes the Pressure Regulator.

Dorman 800-027, which is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023.

Short section of vacuum hose.

8-mm, 10-mm, and 13-mm sockets and long extension!

 

Okay, let’s begin.

1. Car on wood ramps. You can pull the Fuse #47 as in the link above. I did not pull the Fuse and very little fuel came out.

2. The Big Cover on the driver side is a pain because nobody ever posted detailed photo of the exact location of the bolts, so I had to fool around a bit. No worry, if you follow this guide, it is not bad at all. IIRC, there are some 10-mm bolts near the heat shield and Eleven (11) 13-mm bolts (some require long extension and socket to get to: 4 bolts are alongside the driveshaft, 2 are near the muffler, 2 are inside the holes, and 1 is hidden just in front to the rear tire!!!

 

3. Do not remove the Big Cover, all you need is to lower it.

Off topic but in the Spring, if you need to wash the brake metal lines to prevent corrosion, use some water (gentle stream, no pressure washer) and aim it up holes #3 and #4, water will dissolve the salt used in winter to prevent corrosion!

 

4. The setup looks like this:

The old vacuum hose: use a utility knife and cut it GENTLY along its length to remove it. Replace with new vacuum hose, oil the nipple a bit to allow the hose to slide better.

– I could not remove one of the 10-mm bolts (the nut just spins), so I simply slide the old Fuel Filter out and new one in.

– Note in the DIY above, there are 2 ways to undo the connections: squeeze the sides or remove the clips, whatever you do, the chance of breaking the clips is high. I broke 2 out of 3 clips.

 

5. Dorman 800-027 is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023 (Ford/GM type): shorten the WHITE clips a bit and trim alongside (taking off about 1mm or so using a utility knife).

– Just look at the factory BLUE clip AS A GUIDE. There is only one way to insert it, the concave side of the clip faces the Fuel Filter.

 

6. Before you install the connectors, be absolutely sure which is which because once it is installed, it is difficult to undo it and you risk breaking your new plastic clips. So BLUE is fuel feed and goes to the center of the Fuel Filter. And BLACK is the return line. Do NOT mix up these lines!

– Oil the nipples a bit before installing the connectors. You must hear a “CLICK”.

– Gently tug the connector a bit to be sure it is fully seated. I added zip ties to be sure.

 

7. Now test the new Fuel Filter by:

– Key in position II a few times to prime the Fuel Filter.

– Start engine and watch for any leaks.

 

8. Turn off engine and re-install the Big Cover.

 

All the process done here.

If you have clean the oil filter and replace the oil filter gasket O-ring, but oil stills shows up at all over the alternator and whatever that is below it. You may need to do a good cleaning that the leak has created for quite sometime.

This is a common problem on the N54’s which indeed carry on to the N55 as well.

Parts:

• Heat exchanger gasket #11427525335
• Oil Filter Housing gasket #11427537293
• BMW blue coolant

 

Tools:

• Torx bits
• Torx sockets
• E10 torx wrench
• and basic tools ratchet, extensions, etc

 

*Before proceeding, I am in no other way in charge of any kind of incident, missing nuts/bolt, removing nuts/bolt, cel, engine failing, explosions, fire, and so on. Work at your own pace as well as the skilled level. This job requires you to back out the consumption manifold in order to get to “ONE” ridiculous bolt on the housing.*

 

First, remove the reduced skid pad so oi, as well as coolant, does not get on it. You do not require to if you aren’t a thorough person.

Remove aluminum stress and anxiety bar thats over the radiator area (4 bolts).

Remove Airfilter box, upper and reduced fifty percent. Reduced fifty percent is hung on with 3 rubber grommet, so raise directly firmly.

Remove the various other cover in the opposite side and also you’ll see the ugliest engine ever before.

Next, Remove the intake manifold.

Remove these 2 torx screws on the back of the manifold:

Remove the Manifold. There are 6 nuts and also 1 screw, the X on the back is behind the big cord loom.

Now draw regarding it will move, you might need to wedge a screwdriver initially to divide the gasket. Until the gap looks like this:

You can use the E10 wrench below yet I chose the e10 outlet with ext rather, much easier.

Currently you can drain a few of the coolant, nearly 1-2 qt, genuine OEM reveals there’s a drainpipe plug on the radiator. I could not situate it as it’s so confined in the location. So I just pull the Coolant pipe that is affixed to the housing and allow it spill around my good garage flooring. Great deals of towels.

I remove the Warm Exchanger first, 3 screws:

As you can see, the dirt and oil build up under it.

Remove the housing with 3 bolts.

Remove 2 crappy gasket, clean the housing and put on new gasket.

Tidy the surface of the engine surface area really good and clean up the rest of the engine. I utilize electrical parts spray cleaner for alternator as well as everything else.

Now place everything back. I likewise did an oil modification after i set up whatever back on as coolant can’ve seep via the oil passage throughout the Housing elimination.

Fill coolant. Bleed coolant (turn ignition on however do not crank the engine), hold gas pedal for concerning 10 sec or when you listen to the water pump moving. Ensure heat is on max as well as most affordable fan setup.

Afterward, I likewise let the engine still with the coolant cap open up to burp out even more air.

This had to do with a 3-hour job. Cost of the gasket was $12 each. Dealer will certainly charge somewhere $500-600.

Hope this helps out anyone that is out of warranty. If you have any problem on this process, welcome to leave me your question on comment.

This DIY overview can relate to the E70, and also potentially various other versions like the E71/E72 as well that may make use of the exact same wire clip retention style.

The substitute process will certainly take about 45 minutes for a beginner.

 

PARTS NEEDED:

• D1S Hid light bulb(s).
• Gloves (nitrile or rubber; to avoid hand oils getting on the light bulb. DO NOT touch the light bulb or you’ll produce hotspots on the glass and also it will have a shorter life).
• Big flathead screwdriver or plastic wedge tool (to help obtain the harness off the light bulb base; not required).
• Camping headlamp (to give you much more light inside the fender to be able to see what you’re doing).
• Cellular phone cam (to take a picture of the interior capsule to aid lead your job).

 

Okay, let’s begin.

1. Open the hood. You will be working from the interior of the front fender, as viewed from the engine bay (see images below).

2. Open up headlight situation low light beam cover. On each side headlight situation, there are 2 covers that subject the front lights inside. The spin-off inboard one is for the angel eyes light bulb (2011 as well as older), and also the clipped outboard one is the for access to the reduced beam of light (this is what you intend to open up– it remains in the fender recess). To obtain the outboard access cover off, there’s a tab on the extremely leading– just push down on the tab to allow the top portion to swing back. It will certainly come straight off as well as will disclose the inside.

3. Get rid of D1s base owner retention clips. In the revealed outer gain access to the hole, you’ll see a silver circuitry harness, it will certainly be connected to all-time low of the D1S base. Utilizing that as a marker, by blind feel, you’ll feel 2 thin cables safeguarding the D1S base. You’ll need to press each retention cable towards the D1S base, then in the direction of the facility of the bulb to launch it. Research the image.

4. Disconnect D1S circuitry harness. Thoroughly take out the D1S light bulb by gradually backing it out (gently push the clips sideways as essential to remove your D1S bulb/base). After that, separate the circuitry harness. You might require a huge flathead screwdriver to assist wedge out the electrical wiring harness a bit, after that use your hands when you can to remove the harness from the D1S bulb.

For the installation, it is reverse the process above.

 

My Suggestion:

1. The electrical wiring harness has areas for 4 adapters, yet just 1,2,4 have pins. If you shed positioning, check the harness as well as bulb to make certain it’s aligned properly when reinstalling the D1S light bulb to the harness.

2. On the step 3, install the headlight by shaking as well as pushing forward the light bulb till it’s safe in the headlight. Replace the retention clips (When re-installing the protecting clips to the D1S base by blind feeling, make use of a cell phone to confirm the clips are in the correct place).

3. On the step 2, this is possibly the most irritating part of re-installing. On the gain access to cover, you’ll see there are 2 lower protecting legs. These protecting legs need to fit into the front lights pill openings. The holes are just under a protruding circumferential lip. Make use of a camping headlamp to brighten the location to get one foot in, after that the various other foot. You can after that turn the access cover closed through the leading securing tab as soon as you do this.