The BMW Factory Bulb to Bi-xenon Projector Conversion Review

This is the BMW f30 conversion, we just finished up starting from inside the car, just to show you absolutely no error codes or any kind of flickering with these setups. This is the Aozoom H1 bi xenon projector, I’m going to go ahead and turn on the lights. As you can see the lights are on just added the fog lights so you can see there’s absolutely no error codes or anything coming up and lights are turning on. These are low and high beam and the high beam functions along side with the original factory halogen high beam.

It’s bi-xenon you can see the shield’s lift up, it’s almost like a box top and you get extra light coming out of both the low and high beam. I am going to turn off the engine at least keep the ignition on. I’m just trying to show you guys there’s absolutely no hardware shown over here no ballasts, everything is tucked in underneath the bumper cover. These are full plug-and-play with the highlights and Aozoom bulbs no error codes. It is wide and they sharp cutoff line with the blue and the purple.

These are the DTM style halos that were installed that made by diode dynamics these are made in the United States. I’m going to just put on the halos, these are just as bright as the OEM halos not maybe a little brighter giving you that ultimate factory BMW look. That’s really what we specialize in making everything fit like factory function, so these are fully adjustable, no debris, no fingerprints, no issues. These are tough lights to work with the ceilings extremely. It looks like a factory headlight, you got the nice thick diffusers which are a factory style. They’re both the same size 120 millimeters between low and high.

The guide to replace a dashcam in 2007 BMW 335i

This is my 2007 BMW 335i hardtop convertible, I’ll be installing a dashcam as I was recently a victim of a hit and run and while I already had a dashcam. he didn’t record anything because it didn’t have parking mode. this was my old dashcam which was bulky and plugged into my cigarette lighter and it turned off when the car was off.

This is what the front dashcam looks like that I brought, it comes with some mounts and a 32 gig micro SD card and adapter.

First I need to get to the fuse box by turning the two knobs on these sides, then pull out the cover which actually holds the fuse diagram on the back. I used a Torx t25 to loosen the grounding post screw. Use a wire crimper and connect to a diffused to the battery and accessory wires of the thing, we’re hardwiring cables.

Use the fuse diagram to locate the battery and accessory fuses. On my 93, they refuse number 53 and 57. Remove the fuse puller and use it to clamp down on the fuse and pull out. Insert the original fuse into the defuse on the side closer to the prongs. Use a new fuse for the other side, this dash cam only requires a 3 amp fuse, but I’m matching the amperage of the original fuse. Attach the grounding terminal to the grounding bolt and tighten the bolt.

Replace the original fuse with a new add a fuse assembly back in the correct spots. Pull the wires around to the side and then through the hole to the bottom.

Estimate how much cable you’ll need and then just start hiding the cable by using a plastic trim tool to tuck it in. In some places you may have to pry some parts off. I ran the rear cable along the passenger side.

This is the rear cam, I don’t have a rear window to attach it to since it’s a convertible, I then attach the front cam.

The dash cam slides into the mount and it clicks when it’s on. Youcan see the indicator lights for when the recording GPS and Wi-Fi are on to set up the dash cam.

The video is full 1080p HD resolution with a 140-degree wide angle lens. It covers a lot. The 32 gig micro SD card which is included stores over 400 minutes of continuous footage before looping begins to erase older files.

It’s very clear and bright, and I selected time-lapse for the parking model, there are other energy-saving options such as having it turn on within one second when motion or impact is detected by the built-in sensor.

The guide to install a 10W LED Halo bulb in BMW 60E

Today working on a 2006 model BMW E60 M5, we’re changing the halo bulbs out. This car came stock with 3500K yellow halo bulbs, it currently has about 6,000K 5 watt LED halos. But today we’re going to a 10 watt LED halo kit.

So we actually need to pull the lights out, remove both of those screws and see with the poor lighting in the garage but there are two eight millimeter bolts.

To wiggle the light out off without damaging any of your bumper or fender, you’ll need a six or nine inches to get down to those eight millimeter bolts.

It’s easier to unscrew it and then try to wiggle it out. With all the bolts, get the top out first and slide it towards the Ferrari and pull. There are two connectors on the back of the light. Get it out the bottom one a normal BMW connector, just press in on the tab and pull. And then the other one, you slide the huge thing the opposite way that it already is and it comes off.

Reach in and unscrew the high beam bulb, turn it counterclockwise and pull it out of the car.

Insert the bulb into the correct housing, turn it clockwise and it is done. Check out the little notches on the side of the bulb, there’s one squared off one, and then the other ones have a slanted edge the squared off one will go pretty much straight up. Maybe a little to one side, if you get in there with flashlights, you’ll see, line it up, push it in, turn it and plug everything in the seat that large connector inside the light, there’s plenty of room reinstall your bright bulb.

Lift the light up, install it in the car. With the 6000K 10 watt halo h7 led bulbs, it’s pretty much the same case same color temperature as the stock-car VG 2’s xenon bulbs.

They’re definitely brighter and both the stock bulbs, and the previous 5 watt halos so good upgrade definitely to do on the car. It is a little time consuming and difficult to pull everything out but if you’re patient and take your time you’ll get a great looking product.