How to Change BMW X5 E70 Differential Fluid?

Parts and tools:

  • Mighty Vac oil extractor (or any plunger/syringe ect to draw out the fluid)
  • 14mm hex socket
  • Various clear flexible vinyl hose (to extract)
  • 2L of 75w-90 GL-5 spec (i used Liqui Moly 75W-90)
  • Oil drain pan
  • Floor jack
  • Torque Wrench
  • New rubber O-ring for the plug

Process:

1. Make sure your car is level ground, place an oil drain pan below the diff, then get your 14mm hex bit and remove the fill plug, replace the rubber-O-ring on it.

2. Insert your oil extract hose into the fill port hole of the differential there is no drain plug on the E70’s so your going to have to use some sort of oil extractor or syringe.Pro-Tip: to extract the most oil out of your diff, use the floor jack and lift the front of the car this will allow all the fluid to pool at the back of the diff, and use an 90* Angle bend or a U shaped hose for easier extraction.

3. Start pumping the mighty vac or extract the fluid you should get ~1L out.

4. Fill the Differential till its begin to streams or leaks out of the hole it took about 1L + ~100ml. This particular brand (Liqui Moly) has a build in spout for easy fill i just stick it in there and fill it up.

You can bend the pipe and it will still fill up just fine with no leaks!

Tilt it up so you can get the most out of the bottle.

5. Then replace the cap and torque it down to 44 lb/ft torque or 60nm, as per BMW tightening bolt spec sheet. The AutoZone’s hex socket was a tooth too long for the click torque wrench to fit but it eventually with some fussing with it.

Final:
No changes in driveability, the fluid that came out was Golden honey brown, not bad assuming that was in there for 5 years and 68k miles. No metal shavings (had a NEO Denyum magnet around the mighty vac oil extraction line) observed.

How to Replace the Fuel Filter on BMW X5 (Step by step)

The Accessories we will use:

E53 Fuel Filter, Mann WK513/3 or BMW PN 16126754016, which includes the Pressure Regulator.

Dorman 800-027, which is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023.

Short section of vacuum hose.

8-mm, 10-mm, and 13-mm sockets and long extension!

 

Okay, let’s begin.

1. Car on wood ramps. You can pull the Fuse #47 as in the link above. I did not pull the Fuse and very little fuel came out.

2. The Big Cover on the driver side is a pain because nobody ever posted detailed photo of the exact location of the bolts, so I had to fool around a bit. No worry, if you follow this guide, it is not bad at all. IIRC, there are some 10-mm bolts near the heat shield and Eleven (11) 13-mm bolts (some require long extension and socket to get to: 4 bolts are alongside the driveshaft, 2 are near the muffler, 2 are inside the holes, and 1 is hidden just in front to the rear tire!!!

 

3. Do not remove the Big Cover, all you need is to lower it.

Off topic but in the Spring, if you need to wash the brake metal lines to prevent corrosion, use some water (gentle stream, no pressure washer) and aim it up holes #3 and #4, water will dissolve the salt used in winter to prevent corrosion!

 

4. The setup looks like this:

The old vacuum hose: use a utility knife and cut it GENTLY along its length to remove it. Replace with new vacuum hose, oil the nipple a bit to allow the hose to slide better.

– I could not remove one of the 10-mm bolts (the nut just spins), so I simply slide the old Fuel Filter out and new one in.

– Note in the DIY above, there are 2 ways to undo the connections: squeeze the sides or remove the clips, whatever you do, the chance of breaking the clips is high. I broke 2 out of 3 clips.

 

5. Dorman 800-027 is best, if you don’t have that, use Dorman 800-023, which is readily available at O’Reilly Auto. But you need to modify Dorman 800-023 (Ford/GM type): shorten the WHITE clips a bit and trim alongside (taking off about 1mm or so using a utility knife).

– Just look at the factory BLUE clip AS A GUIDE. There is only one way to insert it, the concave side of the clip faces the Fuel Filter.

 

6. Before you install the connectors, be absolutely sure which is which because once it is installed, it is difficult to undo it and you risk breaking your new plastic clips. So BLUE is fuel feed and goes to the center of the Fuel Filter. And BLACK is the return line. Do NOT mix up these lines!

– Oil the nipples a bit before installing the connectors. You must hear a “CLICK”.

– Gently tug the connector a bit to be sure it is fully seated. I added zip ties to be sure.

 

7. Now test the new Fuel Filter by:

– Key in position II a few times to prime the Fuel Filter.

– Start engine and watch for any leaks.

 

8. Turn off engine and re-install the Big Cover.

 

All the process done here.

How to fix BMW X5 E70 Oil Filter Housing Leak Problem?

If you have clean the oil filter and replace the oil filter gasket O-ring, but oil stills shows up at all over the alternator and whatever that is below it. You may need to do a good cleaning that the leak has created for quite sometime.

This is a common problem on the N54’s which indeed carry on to the N55 as well.

Parts:

  • Heat exchanger gasket #11427525335
  • Oil Filter Housing gasket #11427537293
  • BMW blue coolant

 

Tools:

  • Torx bits
  • Torx sockets
  • E10 torx wrench
  • and basic tools ratchet, extensions, etc

 

*Before proceeding, I am in no other way in charge of any kind of incident, missing nuts/bolt, removing nuts/bolt, cel, engine failing, explosions, fire, and so on. Work at your own pace as well as the skilled level. This job requires you to back out the consumption manifold in order to get to “ONE” ridiculous bolt on the housing.*

 

First, remove the reduced skid pad so oi, as well as coolant, does not get on it. You do not require to if you aren’t a thorough person.

Remove aluminum stress and anxiety bar thats over the radiator area (4 bolts).

Remove Airfilter box, upper and reduced fifty percent. Reduced fifty percent is hung on with 3 rubber grommet, so raise directly firmly.

Remove the various other cover in the opposite side and also you’ll see the ugliest engine ever before.

Next, Remove the intake manifold.

Remove these 2 torx screws on the back of the manifold:

Remove the Manifold. There are 6 nuts and also 1 screw, the X on the back is behind the big cord loom.

Now draw regarding it will move, you might need to wedge a screwdriver initially to divide the gasket. Until the gap looks like this:

You can use the E10 wrench below yet I chose the e10 outlet with ext rather, much easier.

Currently you can drain a few of the coolant, nearly 1-2 qt, genuine OEM reveals there’s a drainpipe plug on the radiator. I could not situate it as it’s so confined in the location. So I just pull the Coolant pipe that is affixed to the housing and allow it spill around my good garage flooring. Great deals of towels.

I remove the Warm Exchanger first, 3 screws:

As you can see, the dirt and oil build up under it.

Remove the housing with 3 bolts.

Remove 2 crappy gasket, clean the housing and put on new gasket.

Tidy the surface of the engine surface area really good and clean up the rest of the engine. I utilize electrical parts spray cleaner for alternator as well as everything else.

Now place everything back. I likewise did an oil modification after i set up whatever back on as coolant can’ve seep via the oil passage throughout the Housing elimination.

Fill coolant. Bleed coolant (turn ignition on however do not crank the engine), hold gas pedal for concerning 10 sec or when you listen to the water pump moving. Ensure heat is on max as well as most affordable fan setup.

Afterward, I likewise let the engine still with the coolant cap open up to burp out even more air.

This had to do with a 3-hour job. Cost of the gasket was $12 each. Dealer will certainly charge somewhere $500-600.

Hope this helps out anyone that is out of warranty. If you have any problem on this process, welcome to leave me your question on comment.